Io Arna from Tahiti

Io Arna (hello) from Tahiti

Io arna (your ah na)! It seems like a long time since the last update, but since our PC went down last week there is no way of knowing just how long it's been. This is being typed on our Apple – the backup. Its speakers quit working months ago; so no more music or movies.

Anchorage in Ahe, Tuamuto Islands Anchorage in Apataki, Tuamoto Islands

We left Nuku Hiva plenty ready to move on. Taiohae, the capital of the entire Marquesas, was disappointing. Two grocery stores, one hardware store, one restaurant, and one snack shop for a population of 2,100 was it had to offer. The anchorage was crowded and rolly so it was great to be sailing again as we headed for Ua Pou 30 miles south and with good winds. Unfortunately the area had one of the strongest currents we had ever encountered and we could not go upwind enough to make our destination of Hakahau.That island's capital, with a population of 1000 had 5 grocery stores, one hardware store, one bakery, a computer store, a couple of boutiques for locals and tourists and friendly people. We arrived on July 11^thand were hoping that we'd find some sort of Heiva celebrations going on. Heiva is basically anywhere from two weeks to a month of singing, dancing, games for kids, etc. where each of the islands groups and islands within those groups celebrate their heritage. It also happens to center around July 14^th, Bastille Day, the French Independence Day.

The celebrations had been going on for a week already we were informed and the night of the 13^th we sat with six French cruisers, ate BBQ ribs and watched local dancers from around the island strut their stuff. It was a fun family atmosphere, with kids wondering in among the dancers and a female dog almost in heat leading a pack of "very interested" males in and out of the dance area. We had a great time. The 14^th was a bust. The French put up the flag and had a speech and then provided a live band and a free breakfast/lunch to anyone who turned out. Most of the town did. That was it.

A retired French teacher who taught English swam up to the boat and asked if we'd like a tour to the wild side of the island (the east side). We said sure and two hours later we were in an old jeep heading over the mountains and to the windward side. No one cruises the east side of any of the islands, as the trade winds always make very rough and dangerous. We ate lunch besides huge crashing waves on an isolated beach and then were invited to his house for coffee. He talked the whole time and we learned a lot about the natives and the French government. It is so easy to take advantage of the French that almost all do it some way or another. One example: you want a house; the French pay 90% of the cost; find/make you a job and pay you so you can pay the final 10%. So, you work for a year, living in your house, and then it is yours!The job is over and you go back to doing whatever you want.

The island is known for its giant, solid rock, monoliths and one of the most striking islands anywhere. On our trip we saw some of them but, as with most island climates, the tall mountains are almost always shrouded in clouds. From the anchorage we could see a couple of big ones and early one day before the clouds formed we saw one more. As we were leaving for the Tuamotu island group, the clouds parted for a minute and we got a picture of lots more.

Sunset looking at Moorea, Society Islands Mary climbed the mast to look for coral heads

As had been the case ever since the Galapagos, we had crazy seas and strong winds. The sailing was tiring as the slamming under the bridge deck really got to us. It had taken five different tries at fixing the autopilot but Mike finally won and we had "auto" back helping again. So we could sleep, read and eat a meal together again – it was great. We were flying at 8-9 knots but the boat was taking a terrible beating so we slowed down and life was better. Our goal was a small atoll named Apataki and as we turned southwest from south the winds and the seas conspired against us. With 40 miles to go and sailing as fast as we could on the course we would arrive in 8 hours dead tired. So we changed direction and went to Ahe. It was also 40 miles but now a down wind run to the NW and we made it in 5 hours.

The Tuamotus are a long island chain of atolls – old mountains that have sunk over the millennium leaving the fringing coral reef behind. The water inside can be crystal clear and depending on how fast and how far the mountain sank the inside can be deep or shallow and full of coral heads that are extremely sharp.Anchoring can be a real problem cause you don't want to get your anchor wrapped around a coral head – you'll never get it back!

None of the atolls where the cultured Black Pearl industry was in gear had good water clarity and, due to an ever-expanding population, the much advertised over abundance of fish to be seen and caught, etc. is no more. The big allure now is snorkeling in the passes that lead inside the atoll and the ability to have an anchorage all to yourself.

In Ahe, we anchored inside a lagoon, which was a lagoon inside the atoll, which is very rare. The water was clean and clear and we did some snorkeling. But the locals have grown very used to cruisers and the tourist industry over the years and so we were observed by them and nothing more. Ahe once was known as a very crusier-friendly atoll with lots to see and lots of fish. We met a cruiser that been there 36 years ago and he could not believe the change in the environment. The people remembered him and celebrated his return so that was great but nothing could bring back the "choose which fish you want and throw the fish hook in front of him" era.

The weather turned in the right direction and we left Ahe and again headed for Apataki. We went to the first anchorage and settled in with three Belgian boats. They left two days later and we had the place to ourselves. Went beach combing, snorkeling, swimming, etc. We were protected from the 30-knot winds so life was good. But as in all things sailing related, the list of stuff to fix never went down. The port engine had decided it didn't want to start and the radar the same. So, while we were planning on spending six weeks in the Tuamotus and hauling out at a brand new facility in Apataki, we instead headed for Tahiti where we thought we could get everything we needed done.

White dresses and straw hats in church - Papeete Local guitar player - Papeete

For the first time we had nice winds and nice seas and we had a great pleasant sail from Apataki to Tahiti. Having read the biography of James Cook, it was inspiring to see Point Venus, Cook Bay, etc and think he'd been here in the late 1700's. Tahiti is the largest island in all of French Polynesia, is bordered by its own fringing reef and is slowly sinking. Papeete is the capital of the entire group as well as that of the Society island group. It is a big city almost like any other. But unlike most large cities we found everyone here helpful and friendly – despite the fact that we were in essence tourists. Due to the worldwide recession and some stupid decisions by the government here the tourist trade is way down and many hotels have 80% vacancy. So all is not well in paradise. Word has spread everywhere about the extreme cost of coming here. A six pack of Bud = $20; grapefruit = $1.5 each; small watermelon = $40. A simple lunch is $20. So, it has lost its allure and tourists in the know are hitting other islands – the Samoas, the Fiji, etc.

We spent two weeks or so on a mooring ball outside of the major marina and the water was crystal clear down to 15 meters. It was especially amazing at night when the moonlight would light the bottom and it seemed we were floating on top of a gigantic swimming pool. We met our friends from the Marquesas and they gave us an "around the island tour". But like they said, once you've done this there is basically nothing else to do. The beaches are far and few between and far fewer locals go the beach than you'd expect. Don't know what they do but it isn't what the tourist brochures advertise.

We'd heard about the great singing at Polynesian churches so we went to the major Protestant church (actually known as the birthplace of Papeete). The women mostly dress in white and wear straw hats. The singing was as advertised – it was awesome!

We are now in "wind-down" mode as we get the boat ready for the cyclone season and get ourselves ready to head back home to avoid the cyclone season (and, of course, to visit lots of family and friends). We return in March of 2010 and will continue the journey and adventure then.